13th Century
Intarsia Seal Bag
By Sorcha Fhionn inghean ui/Ruairc
Here I will attempt to record my steps in making my pouch using the Intarsia technique. This pouch was made for three reasons 1) I was collecting information for projects for the Needle Guild Broderer’s Program, 2) it was to be a gift for a friend and 3) it coincided with an A&S Competition.
My pouch is based on a 13th century Seal Bag from the Reign of Edward I. I liked the simple design and techniques of this bag. Seal bags were used to protect the delicate wax seals attached to legal documents throughout the medieval and early modern period. This example is attached to a document dated 26th Nov, 1280 and protects the Great Seal of Edward I. This Seal Bag is held at Westminster Abbey in the Muniment Room.
NOTE: I have found it much easier to keep all my project materials in a plastic zip-lock baggie (1 quart, 1 gal., 2 gal. sizes depending on project size). This way I can 1) keep all the designs, notes, supplies for each project together and I do not misplace a needed item. 2) When I am not working on a project, or need to put it aside for a while, everything will be together. 3) If I plan on a larger project (or have many projects in mind) I can label each bag and add to it as I buy my supplies.
Day 1
Since I am working on black wool my carbon paper would not suffice for tracing my pattern; I had to use the Punch method. I found some small pieces of chalk and ground them into a powder using my mortar & pestle. I used a tapestry needle to poke holes around my pattern. I used an old make-up Blush brush (I cut the bristles shorter and flat across) to dip into the chalk powder and tap it over my pattern, thus leaving white dots on the black wool. After this was done, I used my white tracing pencil to connect the dots giving me my design. I hand-drew the trefoils as they were ˝ inch or less across, hence the imperfect design.
Day 2
The marking pencil would rub off very easily, so I wanted to get the vine outline completed before I drew the design for the back of the pouch. I finished all the vine outlines and half of the trefoils done in split stitch using Patarnayan 100% wool yarn.
Day 3
I finished the front side of the pouch and decided to do the back as well. This time I will add her initials to the center on the vine outline.
Day 4
After sewing the acorns in split stitch with Eterna silk, I sewed the acorn caps in couched silk threads for a textured effect. I sewed the two device sections together using handspun linen thread. I ironed the shield to set the diagonal seam, being careful not to iron the silk as it WILL flatten.
Day 5
I trimmed the shield to match the cut-out shape in the pouch (sorry, forgot to take photo of cut-out) and I whip-stitched it in place using Eterna silk and then stitched around the edge of the shield couching gold gilt leather with Eterna silk thread. NOTE: Pinning the leather an inch at a time helps to hold the leather in place while couching.
Day 6
To take a break from sewing, I decided today I would work on finger-looping the cording and making the tassels. I got two of the three cords completed and decided to hem the sides of the pouch using black linen thread (purchased from… http://www.spinbles sing.com/ item.php? art=grp:dmc130).
I was going to put the lining in tonight, but I just realized I don't have my material unpacked yet (just moved and still have supplies packed), so no point in doing that just yet. I still have one more cord to finger-loop and need to make the tassels, 4 gold and 4 green.
Day 7
Today I worked on the buttonholes for the drawstrings. I used the buttonhole stitch in green silk thread. I was also able to finish the cording and tassels. I also found time to work on the lining; I am using green 100% linen for the lining. I folded over all the edges and hand-basted them (with linen thread) to prevent any unraveling and then I hand-sewed the sides of the lining using green silk thread and back-stitching, leaving a 4” open section on one side to pull the pouch through when done.
Day 8
Before adding the lining, I attached the hanging cord, whip stitching it to the side seams of the pouch. Stitches were about 1/8 inch apart, fitting just between each section of the cording (see close-up below). Then I attached the four bottom tassels, I whip stitched the tails to the inside of the pouch bottom so that the tassels would not pull out over time.
I sewed tassels to the top side seams for added decoration.
Day 9
Today I sewed the lining to the pouch and stitched the cording channel with green silk thread and back-stitching. After threading the pull cords through the eyelets, I added a tassel to each end. I sewed the side opening in the lining closed as my last step. The pouch is now finished. . The finished bag is about 8 inches wide by 8 inches high, not counting the tassels. I am pretty pleased with how it turned out.
ADDED NOTE: I learned some new techniques with making this pouch, which is a good thing as I enjoy learning new techniques. I did not keep track of the exact hours that I worked on each step, as more experienced sewers can probably do the same steps in less time and new, inexperienced sewers might take longer time. I just kept track of what I did each day. Even though it took me nine days to make this pouch, it was done over a three week period. Real life, and other projects, intervened off and on
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